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Most likely.

Not completely following the insecurity. Maybe you didn't have the gear housing all the way down into the aluminum nose cone before installing the plastic brush holder.?? It should have stayed inserted solidly on the grooves. No worries though.

@@rebuilderinaboxIn the video at 14:20 when you place the final piece on, there is nothing preventing it from rotating the the entire bushing assembly a few degrees to the right or left as you settle the metal piece w/slot down on it. And any rotation causes the plastic rod to be slightly off from vertical. The bushing assembly is not really locked in place by grooves or anything, it just feels like a design flaw of the starter. Unless I missed something, but pretty sure I didn’t. Well the starter is working ok for me either way!

Yes the post must be tight. But readings at the alternator output would never drop below 12.6 with a fully charged battery. Readings at the alternator of 0 or less than 12.6VDC indicate a faulty hot wire or fuse link. (if you're sure the grounds are good).

The car is a street/strip car I had put together in the early 2000's by a shop that built sandrails and off-road racers and ran superbly until just about a month ago. I was in a car accident before that and could not do the work myself at the time. The issue I'm tracking down, is the engine (stroked 455 Pontiac, high compression race engine) won't idle in drive or park any longer, wants to shut off. Runs great off-idle and in park (it idles at 1400 RPM). I rebuilt the carb and fuel regulator last year after not driving it much during the pandemic, ran well since, this feels like an electrical issue. Tested everything including taking the 3 year old rear-mounted battery, on a tender with kill switch set to off when not driven, to a shop where it tested good, checked wire continuity on cables (and cleaned all fittings), MSD system including box and coil and dist., put new spark plugs in, checked fuse panel, grounds (2 heavy-duty to engine alone) accessory wiring for vacuum pump and electric fans, etc. And finally found the varying current at alt. New reg put in it, no difference. I was planning to run the car with the 3 wires coming off the alt clamped together and removed, to see if it puts out 14 v that way. Then go through the 3 (one directly to battery via the kill switch, one to new accessory wires for fans etc, the other I'm not sure where it goes yet, figuring to fuse panel but all 3 have been there untouched since 2005) to see if one of them is the issue. When I took the alt out I found the #1 wire on the plastic plug was broken internally, replaced the plug, soldered wires on, verified 2 gets battery signal. This has been driving me nuts, as it coincided with my wanting to sell it and started the day I was bringing it to the person doing so. So I'm looking at anything at this point, which led me to your video due to the loose bat terminal on the back. I appreciate your reply, I will try to find a way to test for that.

​@@rebuilderinabox Quick update on this frustrating problem. I was able to turn the bat post on the back of the alternator with a 1/2" wrench till it was solidly tight. Reattached the wires, tested it, same erratic voltage. Removed the wires so nothing attached to the alternator except the side plug (for terminals 1,2), clamped the other 3 wires together and started it. Checked the voltage coming off the bat post, same 0, 6, 14, 3, 0, 13, etc etc. It really seems like something is shot in the alternator, unless it's possible the feed from the battery into #2, (#2 has battery voltage applied if the battery kill switch is set to on, as does the alt bat post, whether the key is in or not, and #1 only shows voltage when car is running) or the output from 1, to the dash light, could be screwing it up? I was debating about removing just terminal 1 and trying it, but am unsure if that could cause an issue. Biggest problem with a new one is this is a 150 Amp alt. And it's hard enough finding the correct case style, been impossible to find one with more than 100 amps. Maybe it will be OK with that, but not sure, has high-draw electrical accessories, fans, vacuum pump, elec. fuel pump etc.

@@eldaminoTA If the battery is in the trunk, there should be one continuous ground cable to the block. Don't use the frame or the chassis as a ground path. Get some #10 gauge wire, Feed the alternator post from the starter solenoid post, bypassing kill switch as a test.

@@rebuilderinabox Thanks for the information - the ground cable, in the trunk, goes to a welded bracket the shop added to hold the fuel cell. That is welded to the body by about 2" of weld. The bolt it tightens against (welded to underside of bracket) is unpainted. In the engine compartment they ran heavy ground cables (2) to the engine, one from the body, one from the subframe, and another connecting both. There's also various grounds from the body to the fans, and vacuum pump harnesses. This problem with it wanting to shut off while warmed up in drive or reverse started roughly 3 weeks ago now, after 19 years. In the past any issues with the engine at low speed were due to the MSD billet dist., buildup on the terminals in the cap and at the reluctor ends (light surface rust) creating an irregular spark, or buildup on the spark plugs. So the first thing I did was clean the dist with scotch brite pads as usual and blow it out with air. And put new plugs in, although the old ones were in good shape. When that didn't help I started checking everything else. This morning, after more research I tested the alternator's #1 terminal's function, as I was not seeing a light on the dash when putting the key in run, I could not remember if I wired one in when I built the custom dash, or if it ever turned on. Thankfully I shot a video of myself starting it, many years ago, showing the dash, I noticed no light came on. But just in case, I wired a 12v standard type dash light in-between a switched 12V+ source and the #1 terminal on the alternator, when the key was on, light came on, when started, light went off, however it is still doing the erratic voltage output. I don't think the ignition switch could be involved, as the car starts, runs (except in drive) and shuts off fine with it. I think I have a source for a 100 amp 7135 style alt and am going to order it, swap it and see what the output is. If it's still jumping around, then I have no more ideas on what to search!

Try another battery. Go thru all vehicle grounds. Clean fuse block. Voltage reg is in computer, clean connections, grounds. Follow large wire coming off alternator, dis assemble fuse link and clean.

⁠thanks for your answer, just another question, do you know the right value of diodes? I checked and gave me about 4 in all them , but yesterday I did another try checking a output alternator and case and got about 1, 12

@@000jamesh They will all measure very similar resistance. Then checking in reverse, very little bleed thru. The exact reading will vary on scale and meters.

Could buy some time if that's what's wrong with it. (50-50 chance) If successful, another new solenoid would be necessary when the motor section expires. (1-6 months) normally.

Good observation for experienced mechanics with a big tool box. Our site is dedicated to the working man, in the trenches, in the USA with limited tools and limited income. alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/about-us/

Yes. The bank must be in the states.

@@rebuilderinabox Ok my shipping address is in US but my bank is not , is there any other way I can send you the payment ? Credit card maybe ?

We mainly cover what 99% happens or is serviceable at home without special tools. Sounds like the shaft is bent. If its chucked in a lathe, it can be seen. The average guy (which is our mantra) doesn't have that tooling. But don't run out and get a lathe, it needs replaced anyway.

That's what we want.

You mean 200 watts right? The 200w Weller is a 200-260 gun that should be enough with full contact for 60-120 seconds. We haven't tested Snap-on. Also, cleaning the contact points and tip can add a lot.

@@rebuilderinabox Yes watt. question my alternator with your kit working fine. Ive been thinking about a AMP. Can a person just order the field coils and case assembly? Also do you carry brand new brush holders for the 130D?

We just sell what is on the website. Don't know what you mean by AMP... High amp??@@dgc940

Our replacement bushings are oilite. (impregnated with oil, no need to lube)

Why then are there channels near the bushings and materials inside them???

"Our" bushings don't need oil as in all aftermarket replacement bushings, even the manufacturer's aftermarket. Please, no need to focus on this. Although annoying from a design standpoint, it's very insignificant to life expectancy and performance.

No.

Everything we sell, is the parts we use here in the shop. They are the best available at the time. We have very good luck with longevity. AD rotors are different from CS130D. We don't do that.

@@rebuilderinabox No not sking to build fankenstien Im asking would a person be better to dump the CS and conert to a AD (whole thing) and rebuid a AD insted.

@@dgc940 Yes.

Yep and they knew it, too. The very next designs were specifically intended to be non- rebuildable, they even published TSB's touting the CS series was not rebuildable. (which was $ driven propaganda) After market rebuilders were furious and I was one of them. Then GM ditched Delco Remy for foreign cheaper labor. Sorry Delco, don't try turning to the aftermarket you just got done trying to screw over!! What goes around comes around.

Actually, this is for your benefit. The kits we offer and the videos we produce are destined for hi success rate. The parts we don't offer are because the consumer without access to specialized tools and experience would normally fail. How would you like to buy parts, do all the work, then fail??? You'd really be complaining at that point. We're not an organization that will lead people down a dead end road for profit.

Thank You